When in Toronto, you must visit Lai Wah Heen.
In an elegant room with a sculpted ceiling, etched-glass turntables, and silver serving dishes, the service is formal. Go for lunch, the dim sum is divine: baked meat-filled morsels and translucent dumplings burst with juicy fillings of shark's fin sprinkled with bright red lobster roe, and shrimp dumplings with green tops reminiscent of baby bok choy.
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